On a clear day, you can see mountainous Ko Sichang floating on the northwest horizon from the beach in Pattaya. A visit will take you back in time, and give you a look at the real Thailand in a fishing community that goes about its business without McDonalds, automobiles, neon signs or shopping malls.

Departure is from Ko Loy in Siracha, about 30 km north of Pattaya. Buses run frequently between the two towns, and there's a train every afternoon. From Ko Loy, there's a ferry every hour from 7 am to 8 pm. Fare is B50 per person, except for the last trip, which is B60. You'll land about 45 minutes later.

Sightseeing

begins where you get off the ferry, at the 

Fishing port,

where there's usually plenty of colorful activity, and the squid boats, festooned with 1,000 W bulbs, make a romantic sight setting out at dusk. Here's where you begin a tour of the island in the unique local three-wheel taxis (up to 5 passengers for B250) with stops at

The Chinese Temple,

or Saan chao phor khao yai, a large and fascinating hillside complex north of town,  built around a cave with a sacred stalagmite revered by pilgrims from as far away as Peking and Jakarta. In sometimes choking smoke, you light a candle and a dozen-odd sticks of incense, then shake numbered a siam sii stick out of a cup, and pick the matching fortune from a board outside the cave. You can also pay homage to Sun Wu-kong, known in Thailand as Heng Chia, the monkey god who guarded 7th-Century pilgrim Hsuan Tsang on his travels across the Gobi Desert to India. A morning visit and climb up some 505 steps to the Buddha's footprint will reward the energetic with panoramic views of the island and its smaller neighbors. There's a back staircase, so you can descend without retracing your steps. If you've taken the samlor  (three-wheeler) tour, here as elsewhere you just tell the driver how long you want to stop--it's your call, and the driver decides whether to wait, or go about her or his business and return later.

 Not far away but on the opposite, western side of the island, is 

Khao Khaad,

or Chong Isariyaporn, where there's a public park with pavilions offering splendid views of the cliffs and rugged headlands, and paths out to fishing spots hanging precariously over the waves.

About a kilometer southward, not included in the standard tour, but very much worth visiting, is

Wat Tham Yaai Prik,

an idiosyncratic temple where nuns wear brown, and the abbot keeps nuns and monks at work growing their own vegetables and maintaining an extensive network of walkways and meditation chambers. The central sanctuary is an atmospheric marble-floored cave, and from the highest point in the complex there are splendid views in all directions.

Next stop is the island's main beach, Tham Phang, where there's a very gentle slope and up to 100 meters of sand at low tide. Water quality varies wildly--most of the time it's crystal clear, but occasionally a westerly wind will bring irritating amounts of flotsam. Deck chairs with umbrellas, kayaks, inner tubes, snorkels and masks are waiting for you to rent them, and there's a lot of Thai snack food and light meals available.

 Last and best on the sightseeing circuit is the 

Rama V Palace, Phra Chudhadhuj Rajathan,

built starting about 1890 as a summer refuge from Bangkok's pestilential hot season. The enormous teakwood main building was moved to Bangkok a century ago, and is now the famous Vimarn Mek Palace, but many of the other buildings have been restored and filled with informative exhibits. The best way to see the palace (you may need to offer your driver B20 extra) is to be dropped off at the upper entrance, and wander down through fragrant alleys of 115-year-old frangipani trees at your own pace, with a stop for coffee or a cold drink at the green building before you go out to meet your driver at the lower entrance.

Outdoor Activities

 abound, and they make a nice break from too-urban Pattaya.

Motorcycling

the mainly empty roads through hills and savannah, and the narrow, twisting lanes in the old part of town is a very enjoyable way to see the island and enjoy its fresh air and large expanses of open country. You can find a small motorbike for rent by asking any samlor driver. Ko Sichang is a great place for a mountain bike, too, and you can rent a good one from Khun Oui, not far from the pier--you'll need to ask directions, though, because his place is out of the way.

Fishing

from the headlands on the west coast, or piers on the east, keeps a lot of people happily occupied, but big catches are pretty rare. You can rent a rod and reel easily--just ask any three-wheeler. 

Snorkeling

is best at Bat Island (Ko Khaangkhaao) just south of the main island. You can see it--you could even probably swim to it--from the southernmost point on Ko Sichang, but the commonest way to get there is by hiring a speedboat at the Thaa Laang ferry pier, B500 each way for up to 6 people. Masks, snorkels and fishing gear are available on the main Bat Island beach, which is never crowded and usually delightfully clean. Another, more exciting way to get to Bat Island is by

Kayak 

rented on the beach at Tham Phang, about B400 for the whole day. It's a 45-minute paddle south (left at the mouth of the bay) at a moderate pace, with some spectactular scenery along the way. The trip can be pretty strenuous if the wind's against you, so novices should try this only on calm days, and everybody should wear the life vests provided.  

Boat trips

for sightseeing around the island, fishing, or a visit to more distant islands like Ko Phai or Ko Leuam, can be great fun, and there's a considerable variety of craft available, from tiny fishing boats through speedboats up to the rather plush Tiew Pai excursion boats that offer a bathroom and cooking facilities.

Accommodation

Is available in considerable variety, from the Sichang Palace Hotel with its swimming pool and airconditioned billiards room to bamboo huts at Samrong Leuai. For details, and choices of

Restaurants

running from almost posh to bare bones, with plenty of top-notch seafood